5/20/2023 0 Comments Bike dashboard kickstart![]() Slide the toggle switches into the holes near the emergency symbol and the "light" circle. Grab the main circuit and slide the LEDs and rubber stoppers into the mounts. Place the chrome LED mounts in the dashboard plate and tighten them. Solder another short length of wire from the power switch. Remember to put the heat shrink tube on first! Solder the red wire extending from the box to the large power switch. Fasten the last remaining plate over the cutout window with a 4-40 screw. Place the eight batteries into the holder. Slide an 8-32 nut into each of the slots near the edge and fasten with the 8-32 screw. Place the top plate with the Velcro on to the tabs from the other plates. Slide the large cutout piece into the slots on the base plate. Slide the side plates into the slots on the base plate. Thread the wires from the holders through one of the side plates. Slide the back plate into the slots on the long base plate. On one side of the plate with the large cutout, glue a 4-40 nut centered over the hole on the top. Screw in the eight 3/8" screws through the holder to the plate. Line up the holes in the battery holders with the plate. Place the combined holders over the solid back plate. Solder one side of each to the wires extending from the battery box. Measure and cut two 36 inch lengths of wire. ![]() Weave the two short straps with the "hook" side inward and "loop" side outward from the slots in the top panel of the battery box.Ĭut down, strip, and solder the two wires in between the holders. The box holds together with 8-32 screws and is attached to the frame with Velcro straps.įrom the roll of Velcro, cut three 8 inch pieces and two 7 inch pieces. The case consists of a shell for enclosing the plastic D battery holders and a lid that allows for securing the batteries in place. The battery box we'll be using holds 8 D batteries for about 12+ hours of continuous use. The 74HC14 is powered by the 5V out pin of the Arduino, but the Arduino is powered directly from the 12V line via its VIN pin. ![]() Make sure every connection is properly powered and grounded. Refer to the schematic on the previous step for the connections. Solder the remaining LEDs, switches, and jumper wires to the board. Place the 1uF capacitor in line with the first pin of the 74HC14, making sure the cathode is connected to the ground rail at the bottom. Place the six 300 ohm resistors next to the 74HC14, bridging the gap in the middle of the board. Place a 10K resistor from the gate (leftmost when facing) pin of the MOSFET to the source (rightmost when facing) pin. Place a 10K resistor across the 74HC14 from pin one to pin fourteen. Place the 74HC14 to the left of the Arduino with the divot facing left as well. Place the MOSFETS on the board with the drain (the middle pin) aligned with the terminal block. Place two terminal blocks with both pins in the power rail near the Arduino. Place three terminal blocks along the edge with one of the pins in the power rail and the other in the main rows. Place the Arduino Micro on the proto-board with the micro USB connector facing out. Take the LEDs and slide them into the rubber stoppers. This will be the attachment for the lamp.Īttach two lengths of wires to each of the toggle switches. Solder a few inches of wire to a terminal block. The lamps do have polarity, so keep note of which wire is your anode or cathode. Cut four 36 inch lengths of wire and solder them to the lamps. First we'll attach the wires for the taillights.
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